The jig extends a portion of the way under the boat and had to be notched for the props and rudder. The sides of the box were carefully squared. A small laser level was placed on the side of the hull on the waterline and used to mark the back side of the jig wall.
Here is the inside of the jig box. Although it is difficult to see from this photo, there is a chalk-line across the back wall indicating the waterline. This line was used as a reference for all work and was considered level 0. Anything above was a positive number and anything below a negative number.
A vertical center line was drawn on the transom. Parralel lines were then drawn every foot across the transom. Using the waterline as a reference, each line was then given a horizontal mark every 6 inches. Measurements were made and a coresponding center vertical line was drawn on the jig's back wall. As on the transom, parralel vertical lines wer drawn every foot across the wall. Using the earlier drawn chalkline as a reference, horizontal marks were made on these lines every six inches.
Note the box form on the lower right. This is for the trim tab cylinders. The plate on the bottom is to recess the tabs and the plate on the back is for a cover. Dave is working on the return. The return is the portion for bolting to the existing boat.
The mold now has several layers of glass laid in it. Sections below the waterline will receive four layers and above waterline will receive three before the core is inserted. Critical areas and areas of high stress will receive additional layers. One of these areas is the trim tab insert; another would be chines.
Once all of the core is in place we laid a sheet of plastic over the entire mold and vacuumed. The intent is to create even pressure on the core so it will bond properly to the wetted-out glass. This process will continue overnight.
Here, the form is being made for a male mold of the fish box interior. The box is almost six feet on the beam and will hold the long side of a bait tray (beer case) fore and aft. The depth of the box is about 26", not too deep to be able to clean easily.
Mica board is applied for a smooth finish that can easily be waxed. Very carefull attention was paid to drainage. The top of this photo is the bottom of the inside of the fishbox. Note the curve! A port and starboard drain will be made in the aft corners. This image shows the aft side of the box. Note the notch! This notch goes around the three exposed sides of the box and is created so your feet can go under. This detail gives you a tight and stable stance during a fight fish while you are in the standing position.
This photo displays the making of the female mold for the outside of the fishbox. A space of over 3" is maintained for insulation. Once this form has been completed, it will be removed and the interior box glassed.
The fishbox is now ready to be shipped to Dometic so it can be wrapped with coils and insulated. The outer part lifts off so they can scrape the coils. Dometic will then tape the shaved ice pipe in place and lower the outer skin back on. Once this has been accomplished, insulation will be poured into the 3 1/2" void and the box will be shipped back.
I asked Mark for his opinion on the box and his reply was "this is a big box". I told him it would fit cases of beer, I mean bait, fore and aft. He told me he always liked to have plenty of bait on hand himself. I let Mark know how the pipe for the Ice Shaver is to be installed so he could work around it and he made notes on the box. He asked me where we wanted the tubing to come out and made those marks on the box as well. At Dometic, the grounds and facilities are kept imaculate and it just seems like a great group of people. Stacey and I look forward to the return trip.
Dave cut the foam to shape and then two layers of glass were applied with MAS Epoxy to the back side. Lines were drawn on the foam to show the hatch, where the side will meet, and where the corner section will be placed.
Holes were cut for the drains and then the foam panels were glued in place. Two layers of glass have now been bonded to the top side. Before more glass is applied, several steps need to be taken. The hatches will be cut out and support and drains for those will be configured. A wood panel will be placed on the side to which the fiberglass will be formed. The aft edge will incorporate the transom. Approximately 9" in the corner will be reinforced and used for the cleat to be mounted.
A piece of inexpensive 1" insulation foam was used to create the hatch drains. The foam was cut to the size of the hatch and 3/4" PVC pipe was taped to the underside perimeter with Tyvek tape. The tape and the pipe will form the troft. The tape also extented onto the foam approximately 1" for a flat surface to support the hatch. The 1" sides of the foam form the area that will be bonded into the hatch opening. A 90 degree elbow was placed in the aft, outside corner and molded-in for the drain.
The part is now glassed in with epoxy and glass from the top of the opening and into the troft. The part is also glassed with tabs from the underside. If I were to do this part again, I would have made it heavier from the start. Since I did not, I reinforced it with more tabs from the underside.
Under these teak steps is a cabinet located in the engine-room. The risers and small framework holds the teak. The expansion and contraction of the teak led to leaking that left the cabinet filled with water. Go Figure! In addition, the steps sloped toward the salon and pocketed more than 3/8" of water. Nothing on a boat should pocket water!
I glassed the risers and a few inches up each side of the steps. More glass was also put on the steps. These steps will no longer leak. The risers and few inches of the side of the steps will now need to be faired-in with compound.
I don't want to be in a hurry to create the monitor area. A careful study of what would look good, give the right angle for viewing, and concerns about drainage all have to be taken into consideration.
The monitor box is glassed in. Further fairing will still take place. The search for the right monitor is on. There are many companies on the market with each promissing they are best. The prices can be quite scary so time should be spent making the right decision!
The corner piece (at top) is duplicated for port side as well. This provides a housing for the polyplanner speaker, a mister jet and gives access to the new wire/water/air run installed down through the corner.
Wes has faired in and primed the new speaker housing. This configuration should help everyone in the cockpit be able to hear the tunes. PolyPlaner water-proof speakers will be used, particularly since the misters jet will also be placed on this panel.
The transom is the boat's calling card. A varnished mahogany with the name and port of the boat make her a yacht. We designed a 3/4" edge into the new addition for the mahogany to be flush. However, that line was at the water line and I later determined that the edge should be above the top boot line. Therefore, the awcraft paint will be applied only to the fiberglass. Honduras mahogany will now be fitted and glued to create her transom. You may also note that further work is to be done to the exhaust and common drains. The drains will be installed and cut, then faired in. The exhaust need to be cut evenly and faired.
We did not like the look of the salon windows trailing edge changing angle. We felt the bottom line should have extended straight and the curved line should have met it. To simulate this we bonded a piece of fiberglass the thickness of the lip/frame and then bonded a piece of 1/2" core-cell to mock the box frame. The core-cell will be glassed and painted black to match the window. All of the lip/frame on the windows will be faired in and painted to match the boat to make the window structure look smaller.
The shape was changed several times before we were happy with the results. Measurements were given to Munters along with the engine requirements and a determination was made that the area would support the air needed. This is due greatly to Munters almost free flow. The vents will now be manufactured with a 3/4" frame. The hole will be cut and the vent placed bedded and screwed in place. Since the vent frame will be white Starboard and the vents themselves are a white high grade pvc, they will not require paint. More information on this project can be found in engine section.
This is the front side of the starboard vent from Munters. The proper size hole will be cut and the unit will be installed. These units will provide the proper amount of air for the Detroit Engines without water or salt and without contributing to the station-wagon effect. The bottom horizontal slots drain water out so there is no need for interior plumbing. Munters' engineers have made installation very easy.
The water will not lay on this. The ridge that held water has been faired-in using core-cell foam and epoxy with silica. We will now put a layer of glass to tie it all in with certainty. Note that on the right side of the page, the connection of the bridge to the house remains to be completed. Projects continue. You can also see that all holes have been filled (with epoxy and glass).
1/2" core cell cut to a 45 degree angle have been epoxied to the bridge. Once set, it will be sanded to shape and voids filled with an epoxy mud. Once fully shaped, a layer of glass will be applied for insurance against seam cracks. This work is time consuming and just a pain but I feel it is very much needed. We truly believe that if all surfaces on a boat can be made to make water drain off fast, it will make cleaning easier. Now is the time to insure this. A side benifit of this process shown here will be the clean look afforded by covering the screws.
The console has several blank plates indicating where removed electronics once were located. Careful consideration will be given to the entire configuration. Note all of the different angles going on with the nightmare of pipe.
The new pod is just sitting on helm area so that we can study the layout. The perfect placement will be determined taking wheel, gauges and levers into consideration. The relationship to all of the console and how the different screens will be placed is all critical at this point and a major part of the equation.
Here is how we laid out possible changes in the console configuration that allows multiple screens used for modern electronics. The center screen is set for a 15" Monitor that virtually all electronics or media can be displayed on. Its placement on the centerline is logical. This allows whatever is deemed most important to be displayed on the screen that is most easily seen.
Forming the three areas that instruments can be mounted. Each plane is angled for the captain's advantage. The center plane will have a cut-out over 18" wide x 14" high and will be used for the largest monitor. The port and starboard plane are large enough for 12" monitors plus some smaller instruments.
The voids will now be closed in. After careful consideration we chose to go with Glendinning (Marine Products) "smart actuator" single lever controls and do this job right. The use of Glendinning will enable full control from the single levers mounted on the pod. Single levers make running a boat much less difficult because of the logic. Push forward and the boat goes forward. Push further and the boat goes faster. Push aft and the boat goes aft. Glendinning Products are known for reliability and function! Single levers also leave more room for other items in the dash configuration.
This is a very important project to me. I have seen many people try to solve this problem with little success. The station wagon effect brings diesel fumes and mist into the cockpit and bridge. Often times people think they are sea-sick, but the nausea is caused by this problem. In addition, the boat will be cleaner with less salt on the aft enclosure or salon window. My objective is to put air in the void that causes the vacum. Here we have cut 21 vent slots in the overhang to be fed by Munters' vents mounted on the bridge. A single long slot will be located at the steps.
This photo shows the cut vent holes. There will be four on each side that feed into the Munters vents. The dry air will then flow around, through the floor, and into the vents in the cockpit. This should fill the void and eliminate the station-wagon effect.
Boxes were made to hold the Munters and have now been glassed/painted. They are now ready for installation. The box compensates for the angle at the front of the bridge and allows the placement of the Munters to be level.
We made the sheets of fiberglass for the floor at the barn and cut it to pattern. We then laid the PC on top of the spacers, and epoxied them, and laying everything we could on top of it to hold it in place.
The helm and passenger seat configuration on the boat as bought. While the release helm chairs are gorgious, they are so close together and arranged in such a way that the captain must move for the passenger to get in or out. Also note the frigid box mounted on the bridge. The box is too cumbersome and will be moved. The chair locations will be reconfigured to allow more freedom and less stress to the captain.
Supports were installed around the perimeter with screws and MAS epoxy. It would have been easy to simply make the skirt and be done at this point but that is not what this boat is about. The step needs to have camber so water will not sit on it. Also note that the supports are not 90 degrees, they have a slight angle to give the finished product the right look.
A 1/2" strip was glued down the centerline of the step and then 1/4" strips were glued down 7" from the center. 1/4" marine plywood was then cut to shape and gluded on top of strips and the step using MAS epoxy.
Dave is creating a built-in area for the small fridge on the bridge. The built-in will include a pull-out drawer for cups and additional beverages as well as a place for speakers to be mounted on each side. Corian will be used for a table top as a finishing touch. The box will be glassed over and painted with the rest of the bridge.
The front has been glassed and the top is ready to be glassed. A Corian top will be created for the crowning touch. The left side opening is for a drawer to hold extra beverages and drinkware with the large opening for the fridge. The area to the left and right will house the Poly Planner speakers and yet to be determined storage.
We cut core-cell foam to shape and then epoxied it into place as a first step to making the new gunnels. The new hawse pipe figures big into the calculations because it will fit flush to the final teak covering boards.
We chose AwlCraft for all of the paint on EZ2CY AQUA EPICUREAN because of its durability, gloss and long life.
The interior of the bridge has been painted and already covered so other painting can begin. The boat is being painted with AwlCraft - a durable high gloss, two part acrylic urathane paint.
Wes peeled off the masking to show the black trim. We are in dissagreement about how this will look. My vote is that when the masking is pulled from the window the black will give the illusion that the window is the proper shape and not straight across the top. We will see.
Bow Chock Bling. The chocks that existed were small and even if the line did stay in them, they would not prevent the line from rubbing on the toe rail. The plate on this chock is wide enough to keep the line off of the toe rail and the placement of the three stantions will insure that the line stays in place. Existing chocks only seemed to keep the lines in place with ideal conditions and placement of the boat in relation to the pilings she was tied to. The design of the existing chocks also wore on the lines when they were kept in place. This chock addresses all issues and looks great.
Here, the trim tabs were installed into a recessed pocket. The tabs are coated with Propspeed on the running surface. The inside surface is coated with Tuff-Stuff and painted with SeaHawk. The pocket should help keep the tab out of the way of fishing lines.
Wow! We now have to wait a day or two before laying a coat of varnish over this.
FACT: Aqua Epicurean and the home port are actually the same color. The home port is outlined in the same blue used for EZ2CY and now the aqua color looks "baby blue".
The aqua color will be used in the boot stripe adjacent to the transom, then a 1" white stripe, an approximate 2" blue stripe, and finally another 1" white with the "SEA Hawk" teal bottom paint to finish it all out.
The original hawse pipes were simply oval and were in the transom. This is not a good configuration if you need to spring forward and we did not want the lines to come through what will be our mahogany transom. Our Post had its hawse pipes on the gunnel which kept it off the transom which allowed lines to rub on the teak. I designed a new hawse pipe that we feel will solve several problems and help with the electric lines as well. Paper patterns that I drew were sent to a stainless fabricator for fabrication. What you see here are stainless plates cut to my patterns and the pipe that will be used to separate them.
What a dramatic difference is made with the black rub rail extended. Originally we had wanted to replace all rails with white. We are now happy that we did not. We find the added definition of the hull very attractive.
Here, I'm fitting the third board. Once fitted, all three will be taken off. Then, Tyvek tape will be placed where the seams will lay. The first boad will be set and a bead of epoxy glue will be laid on the edge before board two is set. Board two will get the same treatment before board three is set. Once all three are in place with glue in seams, they will be clamped together as one.
Here, the plugs have been sanded off and a cut made on the lid for the number one hinge. Hopefully, Rusty (the Camden Kid) will approve my work. Rusty is a mastercraftsman and has advised and helped in many ways. Rusty is going to recess the lid handles but I really need his help to save the inside corners at the Hawse pipes. I now think that I should have done the teak on the corner first. But that is not what I did! Rusty can save me.
The pipe work is not complete. Cross pipes need to be installed on the port and starboard forward sides. In addition, the ladder work needs to be completed including pipes that will run from the aft support forward to the bridge just aft of the venturi. Once that pipe is in place, Canvas Experts will create a pattern for the EZ2CY Enclosure.
. . . before connecting to the rails on the bridge. You can go up this ladder with your hands saftley grasping the rail all the way up and onto the bridge. This is how it should be. We recently saw a very expensive boat with rails configured in such a way that you could not possibly keep hold while going up the ladder. Not only that, you had to turn at the top to get on the bridge. Not good at the dock, much less at sea.
This photo shows pipework from the aft leg connecting to the bridge. It also shows the Release Marine Helm Chairs. It is amazing how much difference it makes to the overall look as each piece of pipe is added.
Pat's looking like he is riding the best equiped bike ever made. The six foot oOpen Ray Garmin swings perfectly on its mount and the angle is calculated to compensate for the hardtop and the boat's running angle. The Buell Triple Air Horns will look even better after the mast is painted white.
We made the dash panel from teak and varnished it. Linda made the "SJ" for us in gold leaf. Instruments shown are (from left to right, top row):
Pyrometer, oil pressure, water temp, water temp, oil pressure.
The second pyrometer is on order as are the transmission pressure gauges that will fill the bottom left and right holes. The large instrument is the FloScan multi-talented gauge. The FloScan gauge provides RPM and a host of other information including fuel consumtion, gallons per hour, fuel used, etc.
The pod is ready to be fitted out. The helm washer is in place and holes have been drilled for the Glendinning controls. We chose to make the control handles almost flush with the pod. To do this we epoxied a block on the inside that would allow the control sleeve to protrude approximately 1/8".
This photo shows the new configuration as a whole. The pod houses the Glendinning single lever controls, the Ongaro Stainless wheel and the engine's instrument panels. Just under the pod, but not in view, are the emergencey shutdowns and the battery parralel switch. The holes to either side of the pod will contain the ignition, start, stop, horn and various other switches. Stradling the pod are 3 large flat areas that will house the following: 15" Argonaut monitor front and center; 4212 Garmin will be located on the right side; and the left side will house items including the E-Plex monitor and future TR-1 autopilot. From the location of the helm, we will have the ability to view almost every system and function on the boat.
Double track to be mounted on the port and starboard half-tower are being sanded. This track is made to fit on pipe and not be seen once the enclosure has been installed. The same track in a single version will be used on the front pipework.
This is the place where EZ2CY Enclosures begins and ends. From the Captain's perspective. Note the zipper seam behind the pipes so they do not hinder the view. The V-panels that adjoin the center panel open for ventilation without blowing you out of the boat.
Another angle to marvel at EZ2CY. The aft bottom quarters are separate from the top portion. The two-panel-side is very clean, yet very functional with the aft panels ability to slide forward for opening. Check out that corner forward. Minimum canvas, maximum visibility.
The 10" touch screen for the E-Plex electrical system from AirPax and Bass Electric has been mounted on the left, completing the three planes of our console. Directly below the screen is the control for the Eskimo Ice Shaver system. With these units in place the location of the remaining air-conditioning vents can now be determined. The captain has an unobstructed view of each vital instrument while still having the ability to see the sea.
The Garman radar stands proud with the American flag to its left and the Maryland Statehouse to its right. Annapolis is the Capital of Maryland and for a brief period in history was the Capital of the United States. Every time we are in Annapolis we end up seeing old friends and meeting new ones. Middleton's Tavern has the best Oyster Shooters in Town and is situated just behind the boat.
Fish Box After: The fishbox in the gunnel makes a great deal of sense to us. 1. We gain two new corners to brace for wiring, gaffing, etc. 2. It is easily accessable. 3. The box is high enough that it can drain properly without pumps. 4. It is much larger than the previous deck box. 5. It looks damn good! The new box has 3" of insulation with coils wrapped internally making it a very clean freezer/fridge. In addition, the box is fed by an Eskimo Ice Shaver.
November, 2009. This is "Ego Alley" in the heart of Annapolis, Maryland and will be our home for the coming winter months. The town of Annapolis is full of history with the US Naval Academy just a block away, taverns that date back to the 1700s, incredible food and any supplies we may need at easy reach.